February 24, 2009

Going to Singapore?

Here's my list of resources that can get you started...

My Singapore Map lists a bunch of places we visited as well as my walking routes.

GENERAL SINGAPORE LINKS


SINGAPORE CITY

A list of places to visit or pass by:
  • The Art House (1 Old Parliament Lane)
  • Botanic Gardens early morning to view orchids
  • Chijmes (30 Victoria Street)
  • Clarke Quay
  • Elgin Bridge for skyline photos
  • Esplanade Park
  • Fort Canning Park
  • Merlion Park
  • Orchard Road for shopping
  • Raffles Hotel (1 Beach Road)
  • Parliament House (1 Parliament Place)
  • Peranakan Museum
  • Ritz-Carlton Singapore
  • St. Andrew's Cathedral (Saint Andrew's Road)
  • War Memorial Park


LITTLE INDIA


GEYLANG


SENTOSA


SEEING NATURE IN SINGAPORE


OTHER WALKING TOURS
The Inn Crowd has some other resourceful walking tours. You can start from their recommendations and cut out whatever you don't care to see.

OTHERS
Of course, if you want to learn more about Singapore before going, you should get onto some online forums, such as VirtualTourist and TripAdvisor. And if you're ever so lucky as I had been, you might meet someone kind enough to give you a wealth of knowledge. So my last note on Singapore is a big Thank You to my new friend Tania, who spent a lot of time answering my questions in great detail. Thanks bitbit.

February 16, 2009

Singapore Impressions

Alright, so my previous post was about what we did in Singapore. Let me randomly share some thoughts and opinions based on our few days there.

  • Many people have said that 3 days is plenty to see Singapore. I say those people haven’t researched enough, because I didn’t think 4 days was enough. I guess it has to do with where your interests lie.

  • As mentioned, Singapore is a clean city with modern architecture which stands its ground against Hong Kong and Shanghai. As far as cleanliness, Geylang and Little India are a little different.

  • Geylang whores are an ugly bunch. I think some might be cross-dressers too. But at least they’re diversified, with Indian, Chinese, and Malay.

  • I feel very much that Singapore is a cross between Vancouver and Taipei. In Vancouver, I see wide streets that are clean, and generally not so populated; whereas Geylang and the MRT system remind me of Taipei.

  • Not to come off sounding racist, but Chinese and Indian tourists are probably some of the worst I've seen. They’re generally not respectful of (my) common sense, and tend to piss me off a little sometimes. In Chek Jawa, a place where you shouldn’t be touching anything, a group of young Chinese tourists (from China, to distinguish against Taiwanese, but that’s not to say the Taiwanese are exempt) were digging for and picking up crabs, as well as smoking and leaving cigarette butts. As we left Chek Jawa, I did tell the staff on duty, and he looked kind of serious when I told him. So I hope they found those Chinese people and cut off their hands or something. I've encountered a lot of loud Indians in places meant to be kept quite. And a couple of guys with DSLRs were letting their flashes go off over and over trying to take pictures of a leopard, which is blinding to the night animals. I even told one of them to not use his flash, and he stopped; while his friend probably didn’t hear (or pretended not to) and continued. I don’t mean to be a cop, but I have no problems telling people not to do stupid things when it affects others.

  • Where are the Indian women? In a few places, like parks, you’ll see a bunch of people congregate at night. And they’re almost all guys! I'm not trying to be disrespectful, it's just a culture I don't understand.

  • I thought jaywalking wasn’t allowed in Singapore… but I saw it happening all the time. Not unlike Taiwan really.

  • I like the public transit system. It’s complex but comprehensive and very clearly marked. I don’t like how the EZ Link card works however, i.e. you can’t take an MRT if you have less than S$3 credit. In Taiwan, you can use the Taipei EasyCard until you have a negative credit – after which you will be required to top up funds. Way better.

  • After all this, I still have a difficult time knowing what “Singaporean culture” is. It seems like it’s an integration of Chinese, Indian, Malaysian, and Peranakan cultures, but not a fusion. For example, the Chinese culture is still Chinese, the Indian culture is still distinctly Indian…

  • English is the primary language, but it seems like 60% - 70% of the population don’t speak it or don’t speak it well. Maybe that’s changing with the younger generation.

  • Cars are generally kept very clean, and the car wash near my hotel was always busy.

  • There are lots of malls. And amazingly, there are more shops and restaurants than in Taiwan, in my opinion.

  • Tourist traps Underwater World and the Night Safari are expensive, but still probably worth going to. I hear the Jurong Bird Park is good too.

  • When ordering food, you sometimes need to be very clear in specifying quantity. For example, if you’re two people, and you order “mutton masala”, they may decide that you mean two servings because one obviously isn’t enough to serve two people.

February 15, 2009

SINGAPORE!

OK! Here goes my trip report from Singapore. I’ll list my resources in a later post, as well as integrating some of them in my write-up.

Jan 26 (Mon): Arrived in Singapore in the evening via Manila. Arrived late, staying in Geylang, Singapore’s red light district. After dropping off our bags at our hotel, we followed the Geylang Food Safari (also see my Singapore Google Map for "Geylang Food and Red Light District Tour" line). For starters, Geylang should probably never be the first place to see in Singapore for a good first impression – it’d be like seeing East Hastings in Vancouver. The streets are dirty and at night are crowded with men and working girls. But Geylang does have a lot of eateries or “coffee houses”, and the hotels are cheap... and probably all offer by-the-hour room rentals. Anyway, it’s hectic and just takes some getting used to. We settled down at one of the many mini food courts and had a curry fish head, a Singaporean dish. Fairly spicy, but still tolerable even for someone who isn’t big on spicy foods. As a nice mix of fish, eggplant, and other veggies, this was one of the tastier foods we had. There was a lot of eating on this trip, and this was just the start. Durian is a big seller in Geylang, and I kind of regret not eating some – even if there are few foods that smell worse.

Jan 27 (Tues): We started off busing from our hotel to Little India (Map: see "Little India Tour"). Breakfast was mutton masala and chappati, eaten with our fingers of course. In the morning, before getting cluttered with people, Little India’s street are very clean. The buildings there are colorful, and it’s hard to really tell what style they’re based upon. We found the same type of look and feel in Chinatown a few days later. We spent some time walking around Mustafa Center, a huge huge department store that sells everything – but we decided to return at night because we wanted to pick up some Indian spices and curries to bring back to Taiwan. Just walking around Little India all morning was enough for sore feet – and we ended up at Zam Zam Restaurant, famous for their murtabaks (roti prata with eggs, onions, meat, and spices). Unfortunately, ZZ was sort of an anti-climax, because I found murtabaks too similar to the 抓餅s in Taiwan – and it was less flavorful than the mutton masala we had in the morning. But I guess it’s a "been there, done that" kind of thing.

After lunch, we went through Bugis Village and spent a couple of hours at the Singapore Art Museum which had an open house that day and was free to visitors. Score! More walking followed (Map: see Singapore City Tour) taking us past Chijmes (what’s here anyway?), Raffles Hotel, St. Andrew’s Cathedral, the War Memorial Park, the old Parliament building (now called The Art House), the new Parliament House, the Singapore River, Fullerton Hotel, and through to Merlion Park.

Raffles Hotel

War Memorial Park

Downtown Skyline

Parliament Building

Singapore River

Merlion Park

City Skyline


This walking tour through Singapore’s city center really displays what you’d expect going to Singapore: fantastic buildings that bring together European and modern architecture and spotlessly clean streets. It’s great to see so many buildings with unique styles – very unlike Vancouver where not enough money is invested into adding character into architectural design. We had dinner at the large food court Lau Pa Sat and MRTed back to Mustafa Center for Indian foods to take up some luggage space.
This was the day we did the most walking – probably a good 15+ kms, with lots of standing around in between. Tired feet. Tired feet.

Jan 28 (Wed): Having done a lot of city sightseeing, it was time to switch gears. With no tourism originality, we went to Sentosa in the morning to Underwater World.

Underwater World


I should mention that we did the cable cars both to and from Singapore and Sentosa. I read online before going that it was recommend, but I wouldn't recommend it. The S$11 one way or S$12 round trip is better spent elsewhere. But since we had to walk 5 – 10 mins to get to the cable car station before we saw the prices, we still went through with it anyway because it was recommended, and because I didn’t want to walk back to the monorail station, where ever it was. You don’t see much on the cable cars anyway, and the on-going construction at the harbour isn’t very sightly – you’ll have a hard time finding things to take pictures of while you’re up there. At S$23 per head, Underwater World’s not cheap either. But if you’re going to play tourist, you might as well do what tourists do. Following 3.5 hrs in Sentosa for Underwater World and the Dolphin Lagoon, we went to Chinatown (Map: see "Chinatown and Elgin Bridge").

Chinatown Temple


We passed through Clarke Quay (photo) very quickly, and caught a late afternoon bus to the Singapore Night Safari.

Clarke Quay


Again, S$32 per person qualifies the Night Safari as a tourist trap, but it was enjoyable when you ignore the hole in your wallet. Seeing huge flying squirrels and bats up close and personal was kind of neat, but the best part was probably a performance by Borneo tribal troupe which included some of the best fire-blowing I’ve ever seen. We reached the hotel after midnight, but not before getting some mee goreng and a dosai to go.

Jan 29 (Thurs): We had a late start to the morning trying to find a currency exchange, and looking for the No Signboards Seafood Restaurant – whose location I wrongly remembered. We finally settled for some more Indian food and Singaporean pan-fried white radish cake for lunch. Then we took a bus to the Changi Village ferry terminal where we boarded a bumboat taking us to Pulau Ubin. Pulau Ubin is a small island less-visited by tourists unless they’ve done at least a bit of homework. It’s also the home the Chek Jawa conservational wetlands which has a mix of several ecosystems: mangroves, coastal forests, rocky shores, and seagrass lagoons. And it’s free! So, we rented a couple of bikes near the Pulau Ubin ferry terminal and rode 10 – 15 minutes to Chek Jawa. Walking around Chek Jawa, you can see a lot of little creatures in their natural habitat. We saw mud skippers, tiny crabs, medium-sized crabs, horseshoe crabs, a metre-long monitor lizard running in the water, a little snake, wild roosters, and a wild pig (I think it was wild). Very well worth a day trip – it’s too bad we got there so late and didn’t get much of a chance to bike around a little more.

Chek Jawa - see if you can find the snake (top-left)


We got back to Geylang for dinner, finally finding No Signboard Seafood Restaurant. Singaporean chilli crab was the highlight of our dinner – again, even being one who doesn’t eat spicy often, I just couldn’t get enough of the soupy chili sauce, which goes well with steamed or fried buns (mantou / 饅頭). Absolutely brilliant.

Chilli Crab (YUM!)


To cap off our evening, we went to City Space, a nice lounge on the 70th floor of Equinox Complex for some drinks and to enjoy a spectacular view of Singapore.


City Space


Jan 30 (Fri): Running out of time and Singaporean dollars, we spent our morning walking around Fort Canning Park before busing through Orchard Road, the equivalent to Vancouver's Robson Street (Map: see "Orchard Rd and Fort Canning Tour"). It turns out, it was a good decision not to walk Orchard Road because unless you want to do some shopping, there’s nothing there. Back to hotel and then to airport. Singapore… Done.

Fort Canning

Her Morning Elegance

My sister shared this Oren Lavie video (Her Morning Elegance) with me today. It's one of the more entertaining things I've seen this week (which in itself was a boring week following an eventful vacation).

I’m sitting at a Starbucks right now, typing my Singapore trip blog material. And a guy sitting at a table 2m away from me just let out a terribly loud fart that made my chair rumble. Do you know what it takes to make a fart vibrate through one chair to another?

February 12, 2009

Wanna Meet?

Alright, I'm back from vacation. But I've been stuck in meetings this entire week with virtually no breaks. So I'll try to get some posting about my trip with some photos (which I'm not done going through) this weekend. Busy!